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Thoughts

Craig Williams Chardonnay

Why Chardonnay?

April 13, 2025

Craig Williams

In 1999, I helped relocate and develop vineyards and a winery for Joseph Phelps Vineyards in the western reaches of the Sonoma Coast to continue the production of Chardonnay.

Up until then, our Chardonnay had been sourced from an estate vineyard in the Los Carneros AVA. We were not producing Pinot Noir at the time but remarkably, we planted more acreage of that grape than Chardonnay. I cannot recall the exact reasons for this other than we understood this would be an ideal location as well. It was there that I began to investigate the relationship of multiple selections within a variety to greatly expand upon the number of selections previously cultivated.

Our initial plan in the Willamette Valley was to take an intentional approach to growing and selling grapes, exclusively. Since the valley was already widely recognized as a benchmark for Pinot Noir, we thought it would be sensible to follow that paradigm and focus mostly on Pinot Noir with a small planting of Chardonnay. And yet, we kept thinking about the fact that there were fewer than 1,000 acres planted to Chardonnay in the entire valley in 2010. Certainly there was notable Chardonnay being produced but in very limited quantities. Perhaps the most influential was our location in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA. When you stood on the ground and looking across the east-southeast views of the valley, the vineyard shouted: Chardonnay could be great here too!

We soon reconsidered our initial plans to make Pinot the main effort and decided to plant more Chardonnay. This was in part because there was so little available to wineries but also because of our love for the grape. In short, we set about to create a distinct foundation for both grapes that began with developing 2 acres of Chardonnay and 1 acre of Pinot Noir. Today, that ratio has actually increased slightly to 2.5 acres of Chardonnay for every 1 acre of Pinot Noir. With 20 acres of Chardonnay now planted, we are squarely committed to pursuing more expressive, complex and distinctive Chardonnay with a Burgundian reverence for sense of place.

A cluster of Pinot Noir grapes in the X Omni Vineyard

A Community of Vines

October 1, 2024

Craig Williams

My ambition is to create a wine that captures both the consistent nature of the site and the personality of the vintage, while also showcasing the grape’s inherent beauty.

It may be rich coming from someone who has made wine for 50 years, but in my experience, site and grape selection are more important than any winemaking technique. When it came time to plant X Novo and X Omni vineyards, this experience became a guiding principle.

The specific geologic and climatic qualities of a place are prerequisite and without them, no philosophy of grape growing or technique of winemaking could overcome a deficit there. But presupposing one possesses such a place - and I am convinced we do in our little corner of the Eola-Amity Hills - there is still the matter of what to plant.

We planted a diverse selection of vines, over a dozen different clones for each variety (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay). This is known as a selection massale in Burgundy. It produces a blending in the vineyard, if you will, of unique characteristics, creating a wine greater than the sum of its parts. It mitigates the individual impact of one personality, while allowing the community of vines to amplify the environment in which they reside.

Our goal was simple: blend the grapes in the vineyard rather than in the cellar. If my conviction that site and grape selection are more important than winemaking techniques (see above) is deeply held, then blending in the vineyard, as opposed to the winery, is the wise choice.

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